Asus rt 3100 5ghz not working
香港
2009.11.03 22:07 ayrnieu 香港
A subreddit for all things Hong Kong.
2018.05.20 22:13 Kratovil_lavelle American Iron Front: Patriotism NOT Nationalism
The American Iron Front is an anti-fascist, anti-authoritarian, pro-democracy activist coalition. We are a big-tent community for patriotic folks working to undermine the encroachment of right-wing authoritarianism in the United States, even if they don't necessarily identify with the more radical and/or revolutionary sections of the anti-fascist movement. We hope to reclaim 'patriotism' from hateful far-right nationalists, and work towards a better America where all people are free and equal.
2017.09.08 23:00 SparksFlowing Simulation for Baseball Offseason 2019
2023.06.10 20:02 Liighten New Build Complete after unfortunate DOA cpu
i9 13900K, Asus TUF 4090 OC, Asus ROG Maximus Z790 Hero, NZXT H9 Flow, NZXT Kraken Elite 360 RGB, G.Skill 32GB DDR5 7200, NZXT F120 RGB fans, and a PSU not pictured here because I swapped the Corsair for one with the single connector cable for the GPU. Also used a cablemod 90degree GPU adapter. Complete with Sennheiser HD660S2, a headphone amp, and wireless Antlion modmic to create a great headset.
The first i9 was DOA which was very frustrating but I finally got it all worked out!
submitted by Liighten to PcBuild [link] [comments]
The first i9 was DOA which was very frustrating but I finally got it all worked out!
2023.06.10 19:02 y-o-d-a ABS prebuilt overheats (CPU) after light usage
I purchased this pre-built around a year and a half ago: all specs here
The CPU overheats after about 10-20 minutes if I play any demanding game, and I get high temps even just browsing the internet or playing less demanding games. The temps reach about 100C, throttling turns on making my PC unusable, and then it shuts down.
Things I've tried / observations: This was not an issue when I first purchased the PC, and it started happening a few months ago. The first thing I tried was re-applying thermal paste, which seemed to have no effect. I then turned off overclocking (though I will admit the ASUS BIOS screen made this very confusing so perhaps I missed some settings). This helped significantly for around two months but now I'm back to the same behaviour.
The airflow setup seems reasonable to me, the fans are setup to pull from the front and exhaust through the top+back. I've confirmed all fans are working, and via the BIOS I set them to run at the full speed setting.
From what I can tell the AIO cooler (AIO 240 cpu cooler thermaltake) seems to be "working" in the sense that the RPM for the pump is where it should be, and I can feel the liquid moving through to the radiator.
My assumption is that the AIO cooler is no longer working, but I'm not sure how to confirm that exactly beyond the simple fact that the CPU is overheating... Does anyone have a recommended cooler that would work for my prebuilt that I could buy and see if that fixes my issue? The link above contains all the specs including my case. I'm not picky beyond simply wanting something that works and is easy to install, noise and cost aren't really a concern.
Is there anything else I should check before buying another cooler?
submitted by y-o-d-a to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]
The CPU overheats after about 10-20 minutes if I play any demanding game, and I get high temps even just browsing the internet or playing less demanding games. The temps reach about 100C, throttling turns on making my PC unusable, and then it shuts down.
Things I've tried / observations: This was not an issue when I first purchased the PC, and it started happening a few months ago. The first thing I tried was re-applying thermal paste, which seemed to have no effect. I then turned off overclocking (though I will admit the ASUS BIOS screen made this very confusing so perhaps I missed some settings). This helped significantly for around two months but now I'm back to the same behaviour.
The airflow setup seems reasonable to me, the fans are setup to pull from the front and exhaust through the top+back. I've confirmed all fans are working, and via the BIOS I set them to run at the full speed setting.
From what I can tell the AIO cooler (AIO 240 cpu cooler thermaltake) seems to be "working" in the sense that the RPM for the pump is where it should be, and I can feel the liquid moving through to the radiator.
My assumption is that the AIO cooler is no longer working, but I'm not sure how to confirm that exactly beyond the simple fact that the CPU is overheating... Does anyone have a recommended cooler that would work for my prebuilt that I could buy and see if that fixes my issue? The link above contains all the specs including my case. I'm not picky beyond simply wanting something that works and is easy to install, noise and cost aren't really a concern.
Is there anything else I should check before buying another cooler?
2023.06.10 19:01 ZHODY ZHODY's Viet HeartGold Ground Reverse-Monolocke, Part 1: Not as solo as expected
Part 0: Rules and expectations
Getting Eggy I decided to try out the modern version of Trainer Charms purely so I could use the Pokemon Smile icons. They’re so adorable! Rided/Cyndaquil is one of my favorite Starters, but since they don’t have a second typing they don’t stand out much.
After getting Pokeballs from HIBI/Ethan it was time to start the run! Both New Bark and Cherrygrove have encounters I can unlock with Surf or either Rod, so with that in mind I earn my first three tokens from Rt. 29, 30, and 31. Luckily, both Rt. 46 and Dark Cave had Geodude, getting me Sicib and Bicis.
For some reason my Emulator doesn’t show the circle of light around my character, so I couldn’t find the free Drug/Potion in Bicis’ home. But hey, Bicis was a girl, so maybe she’ll help with Whitney like I hoped? Neither of them had a nature that lowered their Att or Def, so I was pleased. However, when I checked their IVs I noticed one had 8 in Att and the other had... 31!? I didn’t expect the second coming of Kokum to come so soon, whoa! Her Def IV is way lower than Sicib’s, though, so it’s kind of a trade-off.
I can get two Pokemon in GX (Violet) City, though not from the water. The first is from the Bellsprout for Onix trade that will cost me $25,200 (But the Nature is... really bad), and the second comes from giving Primo a specific code that is based on your Trainer ID. After consulting Pokewiki’s Secret Code Generator I... quickly realized that the text I need to input to get my wanted Slugma egg (the only one I can get before Kanto) was translated. Miraculously, the Viet HG save file worked with the normal Japanese HG ROM, so I just played both at once and used the equivalent of Alphabet Mode to help me figure out where ボーイ +うた and やだ + かんそうはだ were. ...Though one of the words starts with Hiragana and the ‘Syllabary Mode’ uses Katakana, so I had to pull out my old Hiragana+Katakana book to figure out the Katakana equivalent.
In the end, the translation was Boy + Sing & Do Not Want + Crispy. Funnily enough, before I had pulled out the book and untranslated ROM I tried to figure it out on my own by using the original Viet Crystal method of translating the Japanese text Pokewiki gave me into Chinese, then English via Google Translate and the fourth was translated to be Skin Care. I had guessed Crispy because I thought of crispy chicken skin earlier, so I’m glad I had guessed one of them correctly the first time!
I still had to check if I managed to get the Slugma egg, though... and Pkhex said it was a Slugma, YES! Well actually, when it hatched I realized the game wasn’t suddenly calling A SHI/Primo Mageh when he handed over the egg, it was calling it a Mageh/Slugma egg. So yeah, that’s her name. I had one more encounter available before Elder Li, though. The Sprout Tower he’s in just holds a fourth token, so I headed south to Rt. 32 to catch Mali/Mareep before beating up some monks.
VS Elder Li At first I was just going to solo him with an Ember-equipped Rided, but at the end of the tower both Geodude were at lv. 7 from some switch grinding, so the team was them and the lv. 10 Rided. They won’t go out against his Bellsprout, but Hoothoot’s Hypnosis could make solo-ing annoying.
Rided’s Ember easily OHKO’d the first Bellsprout, but Elder Li threw out Hoothoot next. Rided was quickly put to sleep and she didn’t wake up after getting a Peck to the face, so I swapped to Bicis. She sadly got hit by a Growl, but two Tackles barely brought the bird to yellow HP while she dodged Hypnosis. Annoyed by how little she was doing, I swapped to Sicib... only for him to be put to sleep, augh!
So I swapped back to Bicis, who got hit with a Peck and another Growl before she could Tackle again. Two more Tackles barely brought Hoothoot to red HP before Hypnosis finally landed on her. Instead of making her power through the sleep, I decided to swap back to Rided to get ready for the second bellsprout, and... She woke up immediately, nice! Two more Embers destroyed the Hoothoot and second Bellsprout.
Yup, I’m glad I didn’t go through my usual ‘grind to lv. 10’ session at the beginning, because having more bodies to put to sleep was pretty dang helpful! Nobody lost more than 10HP thanks to that, too.
VS HEYADUO/Falkner After beating his minions everyone but Rided was okay to be in the lowest level slot (8), so I went to the grass to get Sicib to the highest level slot (13) and learn Rock Throw. ...Wait, what!? Yeah, It was gonna be Bicis, but I got confused and realized too late, ugh. Well, let’s hope his Rock Throw isn’t too weak.
Pidgey starts off with blinding Sicib with Sand, but Rock Throw lands regardless and takes it out. Pidgeotto doesn’t have Sand Attack, so he just used a weak Gust before getting knocked to low yellow thanks to another Rock Throw. One more weak Gust later and Sicib landed the killing blow/rock.
Well, Rock Throw is still Super Effective and gets STAB. Sand Attack was kind of worrying, but I’m glad all three Rock Throws landed regardless.
submitted by ZHODY to nuzlocke [link] [comments]
After getting Pokeballs from HIBI/Ethan it was time to start the run! Both New Bark and Cherrygrove have encounters I can unlock with Surf or either Rod, so with that in mind I earn my first three tokens from Rt. 29, 30, and 31. Luckily, both Rt. 46 and Dark Cave had Geodude, getting me Sicib and Bicis.
For some reason my Emulator doesn’t show the circle of light around my character, so I couldn’t find the free Drug/Potion in Bicis’ home. But hey, Bicis was a girl, so maybe she’ll help with Whitney like I hoped? Neither of them had a nature that lowered their Att or Def, so I was pleased. However, when I checked their IVs I noticed one had 8 in Att and the other had... 31!? I didn’t expect the second coming of Kokum to come so soon, whoa! Her Def IV is way lower than Sicib’s, though, so it’s kind of a trade-off.
I can get two Pokemon in GX (Violet) City, though not from the water. The first is from the Bellsprout for Onix trade that will cost me $25,200 (But the Nature is... really bad), and the second comes from giving Primo a specific code that is based on your Trainer ID. After consulting Pokewiki’s Secret Code Generator I... quickly realized that the text I need to input to get my wanted Slugma egg (the only one I can get before Kanto) was translated. Miraculously, the Viet HG save file worked with the normal Japanese HG ROM, so I just played both at once and used the equivalent of Alphabet Mode to help me figure out where ボーイ +うた and やだ + かんそうはだ were. ...Though one of the words starts with Hiragana and the ‘Syllabary Mode’ uses Katakana, so I had to pull out my old Hiragana+Katakana book to figure out the Katakana equivalent.
In the end, the translation was Boy + Sing & Do Not Want + Crispy. Funnily enough, before I had pulled out the book and untranslated ROM I tried to figure it out on my own by using the original Viet Crystal method of translating the Japanese text Pokewiki gave me into Chinese, then English via Google Translate and the fourth was translated to be Skin Care. I had guessed Crispy because I thought of crispy chicken skin earlier, so I’m glad I had guessed one of them correctly the first time!
I still had to check if I managed to get the Slugma egg, though... and Pkhex said it was a Slugma, YES! Well actually, when it hatched I realized the game wasn’t suddenly calling A SHI/Primo Mageh when he handed over the egg, it was calling it a Mageh/Slugma egg. So yeah, that’s her name. I had one more encounter available before Elder Li, though. The Sprout Tower he’s in just holds a fourth token, so I headed south to Rt. 32 to catch Mali/Mareep before beating up some monks.
Rided’s Ember easily OHKO’d the first Bellsprout, but Elder Li threw out Hoothoot next. Rided was quickly put to sleep and she didn’t wake up after getting a Peck to the face, so I swapped to Bicis. She sadly got hit by a Growl, but two Tackles barely brought the bird to yellow HP while she dodged Hypnosis. Annoyed by how little she was doing, I swapped to Sicib... only for him to be put to sleep, augh!
So I swapped back to Bicis, who got hit with a Peck and another Growl before she could Tackle again. Two more Tackles barely brought Hoothoot to red HP before Hypnosis finally landed on her. Instead of making her power through the sleep, I decided to swap back to Rided to get ready for the second bellsprout, and... She woke up immediately, nice! Two more Embers destroyed the Hoothoot and second Bellsprout.
Yup, I’m glad I didn’t go through my usual ‘grind to lv. 10’ session at the beginning, because having more bodies to put to sleep was pretty dang helpful! Nobody lost more than 10HP thanks to that, too.
Pidgey starts off with blinding Sicib with Sand, but Rock Throw lands regardless and takes it out. Pidgeotto doesn’t have Sand Attack, so he just used a weak Gust before getting knocked to low yellow thanks to another Rock Throw. One more weak Gust later and Sicib landed the killing blow/rock.
Well, Rock Throw is still Super Effective and gets STAB. Sand Attack was kind of worrying, but I’m glad all three Rock Throws landed regardless.
Team:
- Sicib the Geodude♂ (14) - Sassy, Sturdy [Tackle / Rock Throw / Defense Curl / Mud Sport]
- Bicis the Geodude♀ (8) - Impish, Sturdy [Tackle / Defense Curl / Mud Sport / Rock Polish]
- Mageh the Slugma♀ (8) - Hardy, Flame Body [Smog / Ember / Yawn / ---]
- Mali the Mareep♂ (8) - Quirky, Static [Tackle / Growl / --- / ---]
- Rided the Cyndaquil♀ (11) - Brave, Blaze [Tackle / Ember / SmokeScreen / Leer]
Box: 1^ / Deaths: 0
2023.06.10 18:48 poencho I'm an idiot..
In 2019 I snagged this setup for cheap (500 euro's) minus the videocard. Once home I put in my trusty gtx 970 and wanted to overclock this cpu since apparently 7700k are quite easy to besides getting quite hot. First I delidded the cpu (first time I ever did so, quite nerve wracking). And put on some liquid metal. Installed the cooler and checked the temps. Seemed to be successfull and we got some nice temps.
Then I started to mess around in the bios. I tried to update the bios through the built in wizard and it seemed to work. Then I tried to follow some tutorial for overclocking. But strangely enough I could not get my cpu stable higher then 4.5ghz. While I read everywhere I should easily be able to get 4.8. Disappointed I just wrote it down to a bad cpu/mobo.
Now years later while installing a new nvme SSD I checked if there was any bios update. And well it seems I was using the 2018 version and not the 2020. I'm pretty sure I already tried installing the 2020 patch before with the bios update wizard but apparently it never worked. Now I just did a raw flashing of the bios and lo and behold. The new version contains preset profiles up to 5ghz and it works like a charm. In hindsight I could've probably overclocked it myself but I suck at overclocking.
TL;DR: basically I've missed out on .5 ghz for 3.5 years because I never realized I didnt properly update my bios :')
submitted by poencho to overclocking [link] [comments]
Then I started to mess around in the bios. I tried to update the bios through the built in wizard and it seemed to work. Then I tried to follow some tutorial for overclocking. But strangely enough I could not get my cpu stable higher then 4.5ghz. While I read everywhere I should easily be able to get 4.8. Disappointed I just wrote it down to a bad cpu/mobo.
Now years later while installing a new nvme SSD I checked if there was any bios update. And well it seems I was using the 2018 version and not the 2020. I'm pretty sure I already tried installing the 2020 patch before with the bios update wizard but apparently it never worked. Now I just did a raw flashing of the bios and lo and behold. The new version contains preset profiles up to 5ghz and it works like a charm. In hindsight I could've probably overclocked it myself but I suck at overclocking.
TL;DR: basically I've missed out on .5 ghz for 3.5 years because I never realized I didnt properly update my bios :')
2023.06.10 18:37 Deivelicious Rampage V Extreme BIOS update
Greetings Fellow-Asus-Users,
I'm new to this community so beforehand I'd like to apologize for my noobiness related to my question. Ten years ago I built my first own PC and I chose an ASUS Rampage V Extreme Mainboard. I recently checked my BIOS Version and it appears to be 0706. This version seems to be from October 2014.
So I checked the ASUS website for updates and the current stable version should be 3902. I have the following system components:
CPU: Intel i7 5820k
GPU: GTX 980
RAM: 16 GB DDR4-2400 Crucial (2x8)
So now I'm thinking about updating my BIOS to the latest version and I'd like to ask you if you have experiences in doing so? Will there be any major problems or performance drops/improvements or is there anything against it?
I know some will say as long as everything works fine a BIOS update is not recommended but I'd like to try it out and experiment a little and I'd appreciate any help from you.
All the best and let me know if you need further information.
submitted by Deivelicious to ASUSROG [link] [comments]
I'm new to this community so beforehand I'd like to apologize for my noobiness related to my question. Ten years ago I built my first own PC and I chose an ASUS Rampage V Extreme Mainboard. I recently checked my BIOS Version and it appears to be 0706. This version seems to be from October 2014.
So I checked the ASUS website for updates and the current stable version should be 3902. I have the following system components:
CPU: Intel i7 5820k
GPU: GTX 980
RAM: 16 GB DDR4-2400 Crucial (2x8)
So now I'm thinking about updating my BIOS to the latest version and I'd like to ask you if you have experiences in doing so? Will there be any major problems or performance drops/improvements or is there anything against it?
I know some will say as long as everything works fine a BIOS update is not recommended but I'd like to try it out and experiment a little and I'd appreciate any help from you.
All the best and let me know if you need further information.
2023.06.10 18:35 ThewWeeaboo GPU not powering up randomly
My current problem is that out of nowhere, my GPU decided to not boot up anymore, in fact, after I leave my PC off for an extended period of time (30 minutes to 1 hour), it manages to turn on for 2-3 seconds, since the fans always turn on when it boots, and then turns off again, and doesn't load/provide image to the screen.
PC SPECS: Motherboard: PRIME B450M GAMING/BR ASUS (around 4 Years of use) RAM: 2x16 Sticks Kingston 3200 (New) PSU: 650w EVGA Bonze (5 Years of use) GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Ventus GP OC Dual (Bought on 2019) CPU Old: Ryzen 5 2400G (using to boot pc as of now) CPU New: Ryzen 5600X (less than 1 year of use) HDD + SSD + NVME
There was no storming or moving of my PC/parts or anything related to it recently, so there is not a problem with house energy or such.
Yesterday I decided to change my CPU to the old one so I could boot the PC and check if only the GPU wasn't loading, which was correct, everything else seems to be working fine, as I managed to get my pc going for 12 hours straight and no problem at all, then i decided to restart it once again just to check if my GPU would turn on, and it did turn on for some reason, which i used for about 2 hours before i suspended my pc to get to bed, today when i powered my pc again, it decided to once again not power up at all, and up to now, after many restarts, a cold boot (unplug power cables and hold power button for a minute), and changing outlets, still no signal of life.
I am pretty sure this wouldn't be my GPU being faulty, as it if was, it would not turn back to life out of nowhere, but there is still a chance, but I'm thinking it could be the Mobo or Psu not providing energy to it for some reason, since they are very old and likely to start failing as of now.
I'm trying to get in contact with a tech / friend who has a working PC so i could test each part individually, but would like some insight of what is happening to my GPU right now, since I've been trying all sorts of things, both technically and physically to get it working again.
Tried BIOS UPDATE, remove drivers, changing outlets, unplug everything from pc, clean cable slots, change PCIE cables, cold boot, changed CPU...
submitted by ThewWeeaboo to buildapc [link] [comments]
PC SPECS: Motherboard: PRIME B450M GAMING/BR ASUS (around 4 Years of use) RAM: 2x16 Sticks Kingston 3200 (New) PSU: 650w EVGA Bonze (5 Years of use) GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Ventus GP OC Dual (Bought on 2019) CPU Old: Ryzen 5 2400G (using to boot pc as of now) CPU New: Ryzen 5600X (less than 1 year of use) HDD + SSD + NVME
There was no storming or moving of my PC/parts or anything related to it recently, so there is not a problem with house energy or such.
Yesterday I decided to change my CPU to the old one so I could boot the PC and check if only the GPU wasn't loading, which was correct, everything else seems to be working fine, as I managed to get my pc going for 12 hours straight and no problem at all, then i decided to restart it once again just to check if my GPU would turn on, and it did turn on for some reason, which i used for about 2 hours before i suspended my pc to get to bed, today when i powered my pc again, it decided to once again not power up at all, and up to now, after many restarts, a cold boot (unplug power cables and hold power button for a minute), and changing outlets, still no signal of life.
I am pretty sure this wouldn't be my GPU being faulty, as it if was, it would not turn back to life out of nowhere, but there is still a chance, but I'm thinking it could be the Mobo or Psu not providing energy to it for some reason, since they are very old and likely to start failing as of now.
I'm trying to get in contact with a tech / friend who has a working PC so i could test each part individually, but would like some insight of what is happening to my GPU right now, since I've been trying all sorts of things, both technically and physically to get it working again.
Tried BIOS UPDATE, remove drivers, changing outlets, unplug everything from pc, clean cable slots, change PCIE cables, cold boot, changed CPU...
2023.06.10 18:31 Dragoniskm Asus BIOS crashing when trying to boot clean win 10 or edit boot priority
I have a couple year old ASUS Z390p that I think killed one of my m.2 drives (or it just went out). I went to microcenter to buy a new 1tb 980 Pro to be my new boot drive and hopefully recover some of the old material on my old drive. Every time I turn on my computer while I have my official Windows 10 boot drive plugged in, granted I don’t choose to go into bios, I get stuck on the Asus screen. (With the text that goes “press DEL or f2 to enter into UEFI BIOS) I’ve let it get stuck there for over an hour, nothing happens. If I do go into bios, and I click anything regarding the boot thumb drive, bios crashes and I have to restart.
I have already jumped CLRTC, but have not tried to short the CMOS battery.
Please help, I need this computer for contract work.
submitted by Dragoniskm to ASUS [link] [comments]
I have already jumped CLRTC, but have not tried to short the CMOS battery.
Please help, I need this computer for contract work.
2023.06.10 18:13 Dominyon [USA-OH] [H] i5-2500k CPU RAM Mobo heatsink bundle, Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 (2x8), Sapphire Radeon R9 390, Samsung 250GB 860 Evo [W] Paypal/Local Cash
Selling some old stuff, all works great and is very clean.
i5-2500K bundle w/ all original packaging $80 shipped
https://imgur.com/4xdeYLU
https://imgur.com/qpJRj6l
Mobo Asrock p67pro3
https://imgur.com/fC1WXlM
https://imgur.com/RQY5Ztf
CPU i5-2500K (can hit 4.8GHz, never pushed hard for 5GHz)
https://imgur.com/HsigK6R
https://imgur.com/BW2cRVl
RAM 8GB G.Skill RipJaws F3-10666CL7D-8GBHX (easily hits 1866MHz with timing tweak)
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/5t2oHoC
Heatsink ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme (TRUE)
https://imgur.com/bD4W1lM
Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2x8GB 3000MHz C15 CMK16X4M2B3000C15 $20 shipped
https://imgur.com/CPBQ1s2
Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 390 8GB $80 shipped
https://imgur.com/YRBxRFG
https://imgur.com/ElqMpQt
Samsung 250GB 860 EVO Sata SSD $10 if added to another purchase (not worth shipping by itself)
https://imgur.com/5TdNWid
Please reply in the thread before PMing and feel free to ask any questions, especially if you want more than one item.
Not expecting any local interest but if so PM for prices, local is Toledo/BG/Findlay area
submitted by Dominyon to hardwareswap [link] [comments]
i5-2500K bundle w/ all original packaging $80 shipped
https://imgur.com/4xdeYLU
https://imgur.com/qpJRj6l
Mobo Asrock p67pro3
https://imgur.com/fC1WXlM
https://imgur.com/RQY5Ztf
CPU i5-2500K (can hit 4.8GHz, never pushed hard for 5GHz)
https://imgur.com/HsigK6R
https://imgur.com/BW2cRVl
RAM 8GB G.Skill RipJaws F3-10666CL7D-8GBHX (easily hits 1866MHz with timing tweak)
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/5t2oHoC
Heatsink ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme (TRUE)
https://imgur.com/bD4W1lM
Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2x8GB 3000MHz C15 CMK16X4M2B3000C15 $20 shipped
https://imgur.com/CPBQ1s2
Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 390 8GB $80 shipped
https://imgur.com/YRBxRFG
https://imgur.com/ElqMpQt
Samsung 250GB 860 EVO Sata SSD $10 if added to another purchase (not worth shipping by itself)
https://imgur.com/5TdNWid
Please reply in the thread before PMing and feel free to ask any questions, especially if you want more than one item.
Not expecting any local interest but if so PM for prices, local is Toledo/BG/Findlay area
2023.06.10 18:09 Silverasio My PC won't boot no matter what i do
Hi,
my PC parts just arrived today, and after I built my PC it won't boot :
When the PC is plugged in, the motherboards lights up.
When i push the start button, the leds activate, , I hear a "clic", the PSU-fan works but nothing else does. The Q-LEDS don't light up neither, even when i purposely unplug the graphic card for example. It looks like the PC does not even try to boot. The power is running, but nothing else happens.
What I tried :
- Switching RAMS, trying with one ram, switching where the RAM is plugged.- Unplugged and replug everything internally.- Checked if CPU was dirty or not.- Trying without graphic card.
- Trying to re-install the bios using an USB-stick. Nothing happend.
- Switch / reset C-MOS
Whatever I do, the same things happen : the clic, the LEDs, the PSU-fan.
Do you have any idea of what might not work ?
Thanks !
My PC comp :
- Motherboard : Asus Tuf B760-PLUS WIFI D4
- CPU : intel i5-1 3600KF
- Graphic-card : AMD Radeon RX-6800 XT
- RAM : Corsair Vengeance LPX- PSU : Pure power 12M 750W Be Quiet
[EDIT] After 5 hours of trying, i found that one cable wasn't properly plugged... Always double-check where your cables go !
submitted by Silverasio to PcBuild [link] [comments]
my PC parts just arrived today, and after I built my PC it won't boot :
When the PC is plugged in, the motherboards lights up.
When i push the start button, the leds activate, , I hear a "clic", the PSU-fan works but nothing else does. The Q-LEDS don't light up neither, even when i purposely unplug the graphic card for example. It looks like the PC does not even try to boot. The power is running, but nothing else happens.
What I tried :
- Switching RAMS, trying with one ram, switching where the RAM is plugged.- Unplugged and replug everything internally.- Checked if CPU was dirty or not.- Trying without graphic card.
- Trying to re-install the bios using an USB-stick. Nothing happend.
- Switch / reset C-MOS
Whatever I do, the same things happen : the clic, the LEDs, the PSU-fan.
Do you have any idea of what might not work ?
Thanks !
My PC comp :
- Motherboard : Asus Tuf B760-PLUS WIFI D4
- CPU : intel i5-1 3600KF
- Graphic-card : AMD Radeon RX-6800 XT
- RAM : Corsair Vengeance LPX- PSU : Pure power 12M 750W Be Quiet
[EDIT] After 5 hours of trying, i found that one cable wasn't properly plugged... Always double-check where your cables go !
2023.06.10 17:48 thelucas2000 The difficulty with balancing Jacky - The "Night Witch" of Brawl Stars. How to possibly balance Jacky.
Context behind the post
In recent light of some of the newer brawlers being added (RT & Hank), a lot of people have been complaining that Jacky is outclasded in every aspect and there is no reason to use her nowadays, she is essentially dated.Jacky on release
On release, Jacky was incredibly broken, not only because players were unfamiliar with dealing with brawlers that ignore walls when attacking (closest thing at the time being Barley), but because her speed gadget also had a significantly more impactful speed boost than it does nowadays.However, one of the biggest issue immediately noticeable with Jacky was her super. Back then, whenever you used your super with Jacky, you would be unable to move, pull in all brawlers, and get a shield along with the super.
On paper, this is not a bad idea, Jacky is a brawler who NEEDS enemies to be close to her. On execution however, this was a terrible super as being unable to move was just too big of a downside on a game like Brawl Stars for it to ever be useful, 9 times out of 10 you would HURT yourself more by using Jacky's super than if you just did not use it.
Super Rework
On September 2021, Jacky's super finally said goodbye to both the inability to move, and the delay between the super and you being able to begin attacking again (no cooldown). Only 2 days after this change, Jacky received some emergency nerfs.Jacky was initially outright broken with this change, some people arguing that it is not fair that she got nerfed so quickly, but in my opinion, a brawler not being meta for so long does not justify having that brawler be meta purposely for a long period of time, let alone in need of an emergency nerf.
About a month later on November, she would then go and receive another nerf to her super, this one removing the damage reduction shield her super provided her.
After this, Jacky was only ever buffed two times up until now, one buff being a buff for HHH, and another damage buff.
Rosa
Jacky was ridiculously strong when she got her super reworked no doubt about it. But a lot of people are confused on why she then went on and received another additional nerf that removed the shield from Jacky's super.The reason is simple, Jacky was just too similar in play style to Rosa, effectively giving players zero reason in competitive at the time to ever play Rosa as Jacky too had a shield, accompanied with a pull and attacks that completely ignored cover, alongside too a Star Power that punishes enemies for fighting back.
Essentially to put it simply, Supercell had the choice between neglecting Rosa or nerfing Jacky in hopes that she would still be good without the shield - they went for the latter but it didn't quite work out as well.
Why Jacky likely won't see a shield again on her kit
To make a comparison and try to explain the situation - Think of the Night Witch in Clash Royale. For those of you unaware, the Night Witch is a card that upon death, it summoned two additional troops. This ability was just simply too strong when paired up when other troops so the dev team had been on a cycle between adding and removing then readding and reremoving the ability. Currently now trying out just her spawning 1 bat on death.The problem with this card is that this is an ability that was meant to be one of the defining factors of the card, to outright remove it should not be the permanent solution because then the whole point of the character is essentially thrown away.
Jacky has this problem too, but a little bigger. The shield was intended to be a major part of her kit on release, it was supposed to make up for Jacky being so vulnerable after using her super, but it is also at the same time what made Jacky so good and viable when reworked. Alas, another brawler already has this ability for a super, it wouldn't make sense to have two brawlers with the same abilities.
Because of this, I doubt that the dev team will be able to take a similar approach as the team on CR is attempting with the Night Witch, to try to find a sweet spot. So then, what can be done about Jacky if this fundamental factor about her is gone?
Map alteration, rotation, and possibly regrowing grass
Thankfully, there is a little bit of hope. Jacky is a brawler that is greatly affected by things like the map rotation, being usually very bad overall but having her niche maps like Canal Grande where she is unironically a really strong pick.This is one of the solutions that the dev team has clearly been following - changing maps every now and then to complement for Jacky and similar brawlers as they please. Then adding things such as unbreakable walls, too.
Another factor is map alteration, what I essentially mean with this is the rebuild gadget. Unfortunately this gadget is very weak right now, but a good way to possibly help Jacky become a viable pick in a lot of maps and make her her own kind of brawler who can now bring back cover would be buffing the radius of rebuild. Maybe slowly over time to see how this affects Jacky.
I'm not too sure exactly as to why they have been refusing to buff this gadget, but hopefully within the next balance changes we will be seeing some buffs to this and other neglected gadgets.
And finally, I think it is time if we start wondering the following: Is it time for regrowing grass to make a return? For those unaware, regrowing grass is essentially this feature where "normal" grass back in beta would regrow after a few seconds. Whereas "dead" (yellow) grass woud never regrow once destroyed.
Bringing back regrowing grass would hopefully be a great way to shake things up in some maps here and there, giving shorter ranged brawlers more chances to get close and personal.
Overall
Jacky cannot have her shield back because it would make Rosa utterly useless. So these are some proposed changes to help her out:- Increased rebuild radius by 100% (correct me if math is wrong and this is like an absurd radius), or to be a part of her next main attack.
- Map rotation changes, maybe unbreakable walls tweaks here and there.
- Regrowing grass added back to the game, either in the form of a modifier, or just by having regular grass have some form of glow or something to signal that it can regrow, doesn't have to be all the grass on every single map.
2023.06.10 17:46 dingbatwithIBS I would like some feedback/criticism for my analysis/redesign of a microwave mixer.
I am analyzing this single balanced mixer design from Matjaz Vidmar because I would like to adapt it for use at a somewhat lower frequency. I will be using for essentially the same purpose but I will lower the bandwidth from 1,75GHz to 1,25Ghz so the LO frequency will be lowered from 2,1-3,85GHz to 1,5GHz-2,75GHz. Also, I will be using a HSMS-2825 instead of BAT14-099. I have designed quite a few receivers and test equipment up to 300MHz but this is my first time designing something that works at such high frequencies, so I don't have much exposure to designs with distributed components. I would like some feedback/criticism on my analysis, because I as I said previously I would like to modify it to use in my own spectrum analyzer.
You can find the mixer circuit in the link:
Here is my analysis-modifications of the mixer circuit: http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/spectana/sa.html
It is the "first mixer" in the article.
There is a low pass filter at the RF input. It prevents signals above 1,75GHz from entering the mixer and prevents the mirror response that would otherwise make it to the IF output. I will probably replace it with something similar but design for 1,25GHz instead of 1,75GHz. The author says that the RC network that comes after the input LPF compensates for the loss of sensitivity above 1GHz. I expect that I will rely more heavily on a similar network because the datasheet for the BAT14-099 says that it was made for mixer stages up to 12GHz, while the HSMS-2825 says that it was designed for use in mixers up to 6GHz, though in my case the bandwidth is also lower so that should maybe slightly compensate for that.
After the RC network comes the diode pair. I will also be using an RF schottky diode pair in the same configuration, there is not much else to say about that.
Then, we have a balun. I think that this particular one is called a Marchand balun. Ideally this balun should have a very high common mode impedance, I am not sure if this particular balun does actually have such a high impedance but the design obviously works so I suspect that it's enough. I don't have the expensive semi-rigid UT-085 coax, I have some cheap no-name RG-316. The length is very short and the LO frequency is significantly lower, so I am hoping that it won't act weird and be lossy. They both have PTFE dielectric and their velocity factor is pretty much the same. The author uses 17mm of coax for each piece. I think simply multiplying this length by 1,4, which was obtained by dividing the center LO frequency which is 2,975GHz that the author uses by the center that I plan to use, 2,125GHz, should do the trick. One thing that I don't understand is that I would expect that the ground plane underneath the balun-coax should cause some issues with the common mode impedance of the balun. I am not sure how significant this issue is, I don't even know if this issue actually exists and again, the design works, so yeah. Still, I would like to hear an explanation for that.
After that comes a power combiner, I think. This one doesn't have a resistor in the "normal" place for a Wilkinson combiner. Since both IF outputs from the diode pair should ideally be in phase and at the same magnitude, I think putting a resistor right across the balun outputs would simply waste the LO power. Those microstrip lines with a 10Ohm resistor in the middle should have an impedance of about 60-80Ohms, so about 50sqrt(2) maybe? I have to admit, I am not sure what that 10Ohm resistor is doing there. I suspect it has something to do with suppressing the parasitic resonances that the author is talking about in his article. Again, since the IF signals from both diodes should be in phase and equal in magnitude, this 10Ohm resistor should not increase the conversion loss. It probably does waste some LO power though. I will initially omit this 10Ohm resistor, design those transmission lines for 50sqrt(2)Ohm impedance and quarter wavelength at my IF which is 1,5GHz. If something resonance-like appears, I will try putting it back.
Then comes a network consisting of a quarter wavelength line and a 51Ohm resistor. This network should terminate all the power coming from those generated at the LO harmonics by the diode pair and everything else that isn't our 2,1GHz IF signal. I will design it for quarter wavelength at 1,5GHz and 50Ohms. Pretty much the same network except for the frequency.
After that comes another low pass filter at 2,8GHz, I believe this one prevents "re-entrant" modes in the 2,1GHz IF filter by reflecting anything above its cutoff frequency. I will again modify this filter and decrease the cutoff frequency by a factor of 1,4.
submitted by dingbatwithIBS to rfelectronics [link] [comments]
You can find the mixer circuit in the link:
Here is my analysis-modifications of the mixer circuit: http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/spectana/sa.html
It is the "first mixer" in the article.
There is a low pass filter at the RF input. It prevents signals above 1,75GHz from entering the mixer and prevents the mirror response that would otherwise make it to the IF output. I will probably replace it with something similar but design for 1,25GHz instead of 1,75GHz. The author says that the RC network that comes after the input LPF compensates for the loss of sensitivity above 1GHz. I expect that I will rely more heavily on a similar network because the datasheet for the BAT14-099 says that it was made for mixer stages up to 12GHz, while the HSMS-2825 says that it was designed for use in mixers up to 6GHz, though in my case the bandwidth is also lower so that should maybe slightly compensate for that.
After the RC network comes the diode pair. I will also be using an RF schottky diode pair in the same configuration, there is not much else to say about that.
Then, we have a balun. I think that this particular one is called a Marchand balun. Ideally this balun should have a very high common mode impedance, I am not sure if this particular balun does actually have such a high impedance but the design obviously works so I suspect that it's enough. I don't have the expensive semi-rigid UT-085 coax, I have some cheap no-name RG-316. The length is very short and the LO frequency is significantly lower, so I am hoping that it won't act weird and be lossy. They both have PTFE dielectric and their velocity factor is pretty much the same. The author uses 17mm of coax for each piece. I think simply multiplying this length by 1,4, which was obtained by dividing the center LO frequency which is 2,975GHz that the author uses by the center that I plan to use, 2,125GHz, should do the trick. One thing that I don't understand is that I would expect that the ground plane underneath the balun-coax should cause some issues with the common mode impedance of the balun. I am not sure how significant this issue is, I don't even know if this issue actually exists and again, the design works, so yeah. Still, I would like to hear an explanation for that.
After that comes a power combiner, I think. This one doesn't have a resistor in the "normal" place for a Wilkinson combiner. Since both IF outputs from the diode pair should ideally be in phase and at the same magnitude, I think putting a resistor right across the balun outputs would simply waste the LO power. Those microstrip lines with a 10Ohm resistor in the middle should have an impedance of about 60-80Ohms, so about 50sqrt(2) maybe? I have to admit, I am not sure what that 10Ohm resistor is doing there. I suspect it has something to do with suppressing the parasitic resonances that the author is talking about in his article. Again, since the IF signals from both diodes should be in phase and equal in magnitude, this 10Ohm resistor should not increase the conversion loss. It probably does waste some LO power though. I will initially omit this 10Ohm resistor, design those transmission lines for 50sqrt(2)Ohm impedance and quarter wavelength at my IF which is 1,5GHz. If something resonance-like appears, I will try putting it back.
Then comes a network consisting of a quarter wavelength line and a 51Ohm resistor. This network should terminate all the power coming from those generated at the LO harmonics by the diode pair and everything else that isn't our 2,1GHz IF signal. I will design it for quarter wavelength at 1,5GHz and 50Ohms. Pretty much the same network except for the frequency.
After that comes another low pass filter at 2,8GHz, I believe this one prevents "re-entrant" modes in the 2,1GHz IF filter by reflecting anything above its cutoff frequency. I will again modify this filter and decrease the cutoff frequency by a factor of 1,4.
2023.06.10 17:38 ccdsensor DDR3 RAM detected as 667 MHz but it is 1600 or 1333 MHz
Hi, it's me again. I posted recently asking about the AMD FX-6300. I got a problem with my RAM at the moment, I installed 4x4GB or DDR3 RAM in my computer in the dual-channel order, until now there's no problem. But Windows tells me each stick it 667 MHz of speed but I'm 100% sure that the sticks are at least 1333 or 1600 MHz.
Any tips or things I can tweak to make that work? I tried XMP mode and it put the RAM speed at 800 MHz (even though the BIOS detects the RAM as 1600 MHz!) so not really an improvement. I tried to move the sticks around by pairs (dual-channel) but it didn't work...
My RAM is : - 2 x 4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz - 2 x G-Skill Aegis DDR3 1333 MHz (or 1600 MHz, I forgot) My motherboard is a Asus M5A97 Evo R2.0
Thanks in advance for the answers.
submitted by ccdsensor to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]
Any tips or things I can tweak to make that work? I tried XMP mode and it put the RAM speed at 800 MHz (even though the BIOS detects the RAM as 1600 MHz!) so not really an improvement. I tried to move the sticks around by pairs (dual-channel) but it didn't work...
My RAM is : - 2 x 4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz - 2 x G-Skill Aegis DDR3 1333 MHz (or 1600 MHz, I forgot) My motherboard is a Asus M5A97 Evo R2.0
Thanks in advance for the answers.
2023.06.10 17:35 bonnies_ranch Used 3080 Crashed on certain Games
Hey everyone I had the opportunity to get a used 3080 for a really good price, but the seller already told me he had an issue where the card would crash while launching some games.
I'm trying to figure out what could cause these issues as it sadly affects my most played game, PUBG, too
I went through many a bunch of forums and troubleshooting videos but have not yet resolved the issue.
My drivers are up to date
I was suspecting my PSU to maybe cause the issue since it's only 650W however I've seen plenty of posts of people claiming to running a 650W PSU with the 3080 just fine. This theory also wouldnt really explain how some games work perfectly and others crash
I'm sadly out of ideas and other resources to consult so I'm trying this way
My System:
MSi X370 Carbon Ryzen 5 5600X Asus TUF 3080 Corsair RM650x 32GB DDR4-3200 RAM
Any help is greatly appreciated
submitted by bonnies_ranch to buildapc [link] [comments]
I'm trying to figure out what could cause these issues as it sadly affects my most played game, PUBG, too
I went through many a bunch of forums and troubleshooting videos but have not yet resolved the issue.
My drivers are up to date
I was suspecting my PSU to maybe cause the issue since it's only 650W however I've seen plenty of posts of people claiming to running a 650W PSU with the 3080 just fine. This theory also wouldnt really explain how some games work perfectly and others crash
I'm sadly out of ideas and other resources to consult so I'm trying this way
My System:
MSi X370 Carbon Ryzen 5 5600X Asus TUF 3080 Corsair RM650x 32GB DDR4-3200 RAM
Any help is greatly appreciated
2023.06.10 17:33 Foxhound-BC Internet Randomly Drops Over and Over
Hey everyone!
About a week ago my PC (wired connection) started randomly losing connection, prob 4 times a day. Ive restarted my PC/updated it, power cycled my modem and router (Asus 86U), reset my modem but it keeps happening. It seems if I unplug and plug back in my router that it establishes a connection again. The troubleshooter comes up with "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration" and "the default gateway is not available". Its weird because its worked fine for two years and then all of a sudden I wake up one morning and theres no connection. How can I fix this?
Thanks so much!
submitted by Foxhound-BC to computer_help [link] [comments]
About a week ago my PC (wired connection) started randomly losing connection, prob 4 times a day. Ive restarted my PC/updated it, power cycled my modem and router (Asus 86U), reset my modem but it keeps happening. It seems if I unplug and plug back in my router that it establishes a connection again. The troubleshooter comes up with "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration" and "the default gateway is not available". Its weird because its worked fine for two years and then all of a sudden I wake up one morning and theres no connection. How can I fix this?
Thanks so much!
2023.06.10 17:32 Foxhound-BC Internet Randomly Drops Over and Over
Hey everyone!
About a week ago my PC (wired connection) started randomly losing connection, prob 4 times a day. Ive restarted my PC/updated it, power cycled my modem and router (Asus 86U), reset my modem but it keeps happening. It seems if I unplug and plug back in my router that it establishes a connection again. The troubleshooter comes up with "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration" and "the default gateway is not available". Its weird because its worked fine for two years and then all of a sudden I wake up one morning and theres no connection. How can I fix this?
Thanks so much!
submitted by Foxhound-BC to pchelp [link] [comments]
About a week ago my PC (wired connection) started randomly losing connection, prob 4 times a day. Ive restarted my PC/updated it, power cycled my modem and router (Asus 86U), reset my modem but it keeps happening. It seems if I unplug and plug back in my router that it establishes a connection again. The troubleshooter comes up with "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration" and "the default gateway is not available". Its weird because its worked fine for two years and then all of a sudden I wake up one morning and theres no connection. How can I fix this?
Thanks so much!
2023.06.10 17:27 TCFranklin Updated Bios now PC won't boot, shuts down and shows fTPM/PSP issue
Hi all,
I built my very first PC, specs listed: ASUS ROG STRIX b650E-F mobo 7800x3D CPU 7900xt merc 310 black GPU Corsair 32GB DDR5 6000mhz RAM AMD-tuned Deepcool LS720SE AIO Be Quiet! Pure Power 12m 1000w PSU Corsair 5000D Airflow case Dual Dell G2723HN monitors
The monitors are plugged in the GPU through the DP-ports, yet the monitors show 'no DP signal from your device'. Quick Google-search led me to a possible issue which was that the BIOS wasn't updated.
After updating, the motherboard had a continuous orange light. Turns out my RAM wasn't installed correctly (a1 and a2 instead of b1 and b2). Dumb, I know.
After re-installing the RAM correctly, and booting the PC the MOBO LED's turned orange, red, white then green. The screen worked and showed some message about BIOS and LED's. Then the PC turned off, and will only turn on for a second when pressing the power button. Or if I hold the power button, but it will stop immediately after releasing it.
I turned off the PSU, and switched it back on after a while. The PC turned on and did the same thing with the orange, red, white and green LED's. Then the message on the screen was:'New CPU installed. fTPM/PSP NV corrupted or fTPM/PSP NV structure changed. Press Y to reset ftPM, if you have BitLocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boo without a recovery key. Or press N to keep previous fTPM record and continue system boot. fTPM will NOT enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related Keys and data.
Pressing Y leads me to the option to go into the BIOS, which works for a while. This is the BIOS screen. Cpu temp goes to 85 then the pc shuts down again. BIOS SCREEN
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance!
submitted by TCFranklin to buildapc [link] [comments]
I built my very first PC, specs listed: ASUS ROG STRIX b650E-F mobo 7800x3D CPU 7900xt merc 310 black GPU Corsair 32GB DDR5 6000mhz RAM AMD-tuned Deepcool LS720SE AIO Be Quiet! Pure Power 12m 1000w PSU Corsair 5000D Airflow case Dual Dell G2723HN monitors
The monitors are plugged in the GPU through the DP-ports, yet the monitors show 'no DP signal from your device'. Quick Google-search led me to a possible issue which was that the BIOS wasn't updated.
After updating, the motherboard had a continuous orange light. Turns out my RAM wasn't installed correctly (a1 and a2 instead of b1 and b2). Dumb, I know.
After re-installing the RAM correctly, and booting the PC the MOBO LED's turned orange, red, white then green. The screen worked and showed some message about BIOS and LED's. Then the PC turned off, and will only turn on for a second when pressing the power button. Or if I hold the power button, but it will stop immediately after releasing it.
I turned off the PSU, and switched it back on after a while. The PC turned on and did the same thing with the orange, red, white and green LED's. Then the message on the screen was:'New CPU installed. fTPM/PSP NV corrupted or fTPM/PSP NV structure changed. Press Y to reset ftPM, if you have BitLocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boo without a recovery key. Or press N to keep previous fTPM record and continue system boot. fTPM will NOT enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related Keys and data.
Pressing Y leads me to the option to go into the BIOS, which works for a while. This is the BIOS screen. Cpu temp goes to 85 then the pc shuts down again. BIOS SCREEN
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance!
2023.06.10 16:29 surivanoroc20 Old PC’s SSD into brand new system is having boot and freezing issues
My old (c.2011) PC’s GPU died, so I decided to build a new PC with all new parts. The only thing I wanted desperately to keep was my OS SSD (installed c.2018), since I dread having to reinstall Windows and ALLLLLL my stuff. After building the PC and running test boots, I plugged in the SSD and it wound not boot. After looking online for solutions, I quickly learned that older boot drives are MBR (legacy) and newer PCs require GPT. No idea that was a thing. Figured out how to enable CSM to get drive to boot. That worked. Went into safe mode to uninstall all nvidia software and drivers, rebooted to install Intel Arc drivers and software. That went well.
But out of nowhere, if I try to launch anything, steam, control panel, just anything, the system starts to freeze and becomes unusable. Starting up in safe mode does not cause freezing.
I do have old Asus Ai Suite II software and EVGA Precision X from the old hardware the SSD came from, but didn’t have a chance to uninstall any of that since I don’t have a way to get into windows because old GPU died and couldn’t use iGPU since old mobo doesn’t have monitor ports. Tried to uninstall old software while SDD is in new build but it won’t let me.
Any idea what can be causing the instability and freezing?
I think it’s likely that I don’t have ReBAR enabled, but doing so turns off CSM, which means I can’t use the SSD to boot. I want to try to convert from MBR to GPT but can’t because it just freezes.
Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.
New system (all stock, no OC): i7-13700K, ROG Strix Z690-G, 64GB Corsair Dominator 5600 DDR5 (QVL) Arc A750, Corsair Shift RM1000x PSU
Old system (all stock as well): i7-2700K, Asus TUF P67, 16 GB Corsair Vengeance, EVGA GTX 970 (died, and mobo doesn’t have display ports), Rosewill Lightning 1000 PSU
Carryover-over component: Samsung 870 Evo SSD (MBR boot drive)
submitted by surivanoroc20 to buildapc [link] [comments]
But out of nowhere, if I try to launch anything, steam, control panel, just anything, the system starts to freeze and becomes unusable. Starting up in safe mode does not cause freezing.
I do have old Asus Ai Suite II software and EVGA Precision X from the old hardware the SSD came from, but didn’t have a chance to uninstall any of that since I don’t have a way to get into windows because old GPU died and couldn’t use iGPU since old mobo doesn’t have monitor ports. Tried to uninstall old software while SDD is in new build but it won’t let me.
Any idea what can be causing the instability and freezing?
I think it’s likely that I don’t have ReBAR enabled, but doing so turns off CSM, which means I can’t use the SSD to boot. I want to try to convert from MBR to GPT but can’t because it just freezes.
Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.
New system (all stock, no OC): i7-13700K, ROG Strix Z690-G, 64GB Corsair Dominator 5600 DDR5 (QVL) Arc A750, Corsair Shift RM1000x PSU
Old system (all stock as well): i7-2700K, Asus TUF P67, 16 GB Corsair Vengeance, EVGA GTX 970 (died, and mobo doesn’t have display ports), Rosewill Lightning 1000 PSU
Carryover-over component: Samsung 870 Evo SSD (MBR boot drive)
2023.06.10 16:27 Smooth_Squirrel7380 How to take port films with Align RT
Hi all. Thank you for reading this and taking the time to help me gain a better understanding and handle on the new ways of doing things at my new place of work here in Texas..
First of all, everything is different than my clinical site where I trained as a student and worked for a few years afterwards…it’s almost like starting from scratch except I know how to manage the machine (varian true beam)lol…
So, we have align RT (never used it before) and I’m still getting a handle on it and they take double exposure port films while using DIBH with align RT. It’s been doing 3-5 things at once at the console and I’ve never felt more confused/overwhelmed/mostly dumb before. The gantry head and collimator is very sensitive so we also have to turn patient protection on and tri-pod the buttons along with everything else at the same exact time. I want to cry LOL!
Can someone help me understand why we must hold down the MV button whilst the patient is taking a breath in? Do we let off of it once the breath has been taken deeply enough based on the threshold data from the align RT computer screen?
Thank you again.. I’m sure I’m not the only who’s felt this overwhelmed in the beginning!
submitted by Smooth_Squirrel7380 to RadiationTherapy [link] [comments]
First of all, everything is different than my clinical site where I trained as a student and worked for a few years afterwards…it’s almost like starting from scratch except I know how to manage the machine (varian true beam)lol…
So, we have align RT (never used it before) and I’m still getting a handle on it and they take double exposure port films while using DIBH with align RT. It’s been doing 3-5 things at once at the console and I’ve never felt more confused/overwhelmed/mostly dumb before. The gantry head and collimator is very sensitive so we also have to turn patient protection on and tri-pod the buttons along with everything else at the same exact time. I want to cry LOL!
Can someone help me understand why we must hold down the MV button whilst the patient is taking a breath in? Do we let off of it once the breath has been taken deeply enough based on the threshold data from the align RT computer screen?
Thank you again.. I’m sure I’m not the only who’s felt this overwhelmed in the beginning!
2023.06.10 15:43 Suspicious_Ram Sonos Sub Connection Issues (Solution)
Posting this to save someone else a bit of time. Replaced my wireless access points with a more business grade access point, Netgear WAX610 in this case. My sonos sub stopped paring with my beam, instead showing a beam+? mark under the device status. It would seemingly connect, then disconnect 30 seconds later.
A lot of the business grade/enterprise access points offer additional features to take the burden off wireless radios.
DHCP Offer as Unicast is one of those features, and was the source of the issues. I believe this was intercepting the DHCP broadcast requests to the Beam. The intent of this feature is to stop broadcasts across the wlan, which is problematic with how the sonos pairing and the private 5ghz wireless network works. Thankfully I did not have to disable additional functionality like ARP proxy.
This feature might also be called a DHCP Proxy depending on the access point.
Hope this is helpful for someone.
submitted by Suspicious_Ram to sonos [link] [comments]
A lot of the business grade/enterprise access points offer additional features to take the burden off wireless radios.
DHCP Offer as Unicast is one of those features, and was the source of the issues. I believe this was intercepting the DHCP broadcast requests to the Beam. The intent of this feature is to stop broadcasts across the wlan, which is problematic with how the sonos pairing and the private 5ghz wireless network works. Thankfully I did not have to disable additional functionality like ARP proxy.
This feature might also be called a DHCP Proxy depending on the access point.
Hope this is helpful for someone.
2023.06.10 15:31 TortoiseK1ng Upgrading Wifi To PC Connection
Hi, so as the title says, I'm looking to upgrade my PC to be able to connect to our newly installed 100/100 internet connection, routing LAN would be a lot of work so I'm looking to use WIFI. Due to not being very tech savy I'm seeking help to point me in the right direction. Relevant hardware: Current connection is the MPG X570 integrated WIFI antenna (which can be removed) but due to range issues it is not capable of creating a stable connection to the router. Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 3168 Supports 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac, dual band (2.4GHz, 5GHz) up to 433 Mbps
The router that I am connecting to have these WIFI specs: 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g/n/ax 4x4, 5 GHz IEEE 802.11a/n/ac/ax 4x4 I have also borrowed my brothers to test the range of his USB AC-1300 which was reasonably good.
So what I'm seeking advice on is if wether or not the integrated network card is preferable to the usb dongle and if the range, and speed can be improved on the WIFI dongle while staying within a 50-100 dollar budget. Thanks!
submitted by TortoiseK1ng to PcBuild [link] [comments]
The router that I am connecting to have these WIFI specs: 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g/n/ax 4x4, 5 GHz IEEE 802.11a/n/ac/ax 4x4 I have also borrowed my brothers to test the range of his USB AC-1300 which was reasonably good.
So what I'm seeking advice on is if wether or not the integrated network card is preferable to the usb dongle and if the range, and speed can be improved on the WIFI dongle while staying within a 50-100 dollar budget. Thanks!
2023.06.10 15:26 Deivelicious Rampage V Extreme BIOS update (almost nostalgic)
Greetings Fellow-Asus-Users,
I'm new to this community so beforehand I'd like to apologize for my noobiness related to my question. Ten years ago I built my first own PC and I chose an ASUS Rampage V Extreme Mainboard. I recently checked my BIOS Version and it appears to be 0706. This version seems to be from October 2014.
So I checked the ASUS website for updates and the current stable version should be 3902. I have the following system components:
CPU: Intel i7 5820k
GPU: GTX 980
RAM: 16 GB DDR4-2400 Crucial (2x8)
So now I'm thinking about updating my BIOS to the latest version and I'd like to ask you if you have experiences in doing so? Will there be any major problems or performance drops/improvements or is there anything against it?
I know some will say as long as everything works fine a BIOS update is not recommended but I'd like to try it out and experiment a little and I'd appreciate any help from you.
All the best and let me know if you need further information.
submitted by Deivelicious to ASUS [link] [comments]
I'm new to this community so beforehand I'd like to apologize for my noobiness related to my question. Ten years ago I built my first own PC and I chose an ASUS Rampage V Extreme Mainboard. I recently checked my BIOS Version and it appears to be 0706. This version seems to be from October 2014.
So I checked the ASUS website for updates and the current stable version should be 3902. I have the following system components:
CPU: Intel i7 5820k
GPU: GTX 980
RAM: 16 GB DDR4-2400 Crucial (2x8)
So now I'm thinking about updating my BIOS to the latest version and I'd like to ask you if you have experiences in doing so? Will there be any major problems or performance drops/improvements or is there anything against it?
I know some will say as long as everything works fine a BIOS update is not recommended but I'd like to try it out and experiment a little and I'd appreciate any help from you.
All the best and let me know if you need further information.
2023.06.10 15:23 Nzkx If you want a "safe" build that can not fail
I made my own upgrade tonight and it worked perfectly first boot, with XMP enabled and 0 errors on benchmark.
------------------------------
- i5 13600KF.
- MSI z790 Tomahawk Wifi.
- G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 (F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RK). If you don't want to take "risk" because some users had issues with their DDR5, don't take anything that would be above 6400 Mhz with XMP otherwise you are at mercy of silicon lotery. This DDR5 is already one of the top performers with CL32.
- NH-D15 (no AIO). Don't forget to get your free 1700 LGA mounting kit on their website, it's free.
- Any case that fit the NH-D15 (mine is Lian li air mini 011, mid tower, be sure to have enough space for your NH-D15. With the Lian Mini O11 case you can use a NH-D15 with a single fan setup).
- Any SSD/NVME disk and decent PSU.
Easy build honestly, don't expect any failure it's a "safe" build where everything is guaranteed to be compatible. The computer fans are silent, don't expect any sound outside of boot startup.
I had to outcase the motherboard 2 time and remount the NH-D15 2 time because I failed the installation and nothing broke ; very solid materials here. They put a special paint on motherboard so that when you screw it, you are less likely to damage the PCB if you rip your screw.
I don't use a CPU contact frame, but some people reported -2°C to -5°C so if you have the opportunity, take it.
To end this post, thanks to MSI for providing an USB Key 16GB with their motherboard. I didn't expected that, you can format the USB key and put a Windows installer on it. Really good move because there's some people like me that didn't have one :) .
If you have any suggestions for BIOS settings on MSI z790, I take everything :) . I've just enabled XMP and set CPU Load Line to mode 9 instead of the default 12.
My previous build was a i7 8700k OC @ 5,2Ghz 1.5 vcore, Asus Maximus X Hero and DDR4 3200 Mhz with XMP. The gap of performance with the i5 13600KF and DDR5 isn't really perceptible at first so don't expect to have a "woah" effect if you have similar DDR4 setup.
Edit : The single issue I had first boot is the iGPU of 13600KF wasn't providing signal to the monitor, with VGA led yellow. I had to plug my GPU to get something on the screen. It's abnormal because the i5 13600KF should have an iGPU. I guess I need to update the BIOS, but that's annoying because there's many users that expect the iGPU to work properly on first boot - not everyone has a spare GPU.
submitted by Nzkx to buildapc [link] [comments]
------------------------------
- i5 13600KF.
- MSI z790 Tomahawk Wifi.
- G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 (F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RK). If you don't want to take "risk" because some users had issues with their DDR5, don't take anything that would be above 6400 Mhz with XMP otherwise you are at mercy of silicon lotery. This DDR5 is already one of the top performers with CL32.
- NH-D15 (no AIO). Don't forget to get your free 1700 LGA mounting kit on their website, it's free.
- Any case that fit the NH-D15 (mine is Lian li air mini 011, mid tower, be sure to have enough space for your NH-D15. With the Lian Mini O11 case you can use a NH-D15 with a single fan setup).
- Any SSD/NVME disk and decent PSU.
Easy build honestly, don't expect any failure it's a "safe" build where everything is guaranteed to be compatible. The computer fans are silent, don't expect any sound outside of boot startup.
I had to outcase the motherboard 2 time and remount the NH-D15 2 time because I failed the installation and nothing broke ; very solid materials here. They put a special paint on motherboard so that when you screw it, you are less likely to damage the PCB if you rip your screw.
I don't use a CPU contact frame, but some people reported -2°C to -5°C so if you have the opportunity, take it.
To end this post, thanks to MSI for providing an USB Key 16GB with their motherboard. I didn't expected that, you can format the USB key and put a Windows installer on it. Really good move because there's some people like me that didn't have one :) .
If you have any suggestions for BIOS settings on MSI z790, I take everything :) . I've just enabled XMP and set CPU Load Line to mode 9 instead of the default 12.
My previous build was a i7 8700k OC @ 5,2Ghz 1.5 vcore, Asus Maximus X Hero and DDR4 3200 Mhz with XMP. The gap of performance with the i5 13600KF and DDR5 isn't really perceptible at first so don't expect to have a "woah" effect if you have similar DDR4 setup.
Edit : The single issue I had first boot is the iGPU of 13600KF wasn't providing signal to the monitor, with VGA led yellow. I had to plug my GPU to get something on the screen. It's abnormal because the i5 13600KF should have an iGPU. I guess I need to update the BIOS, but that's annoying because there's many users that expect the iGPU to work properly on first boot - not everyone has a spare GPU.